Quilt with Continuum

Jennifer Sampou has done it again with her latest collection Continuum - in stores this October!

Jennifer originally created the beautiful designs with encaustic painting (aka hot wax painting) - a technique she learned while living in Mexico that combines beeswax with color pigment.

As you can see, the results were fantastic! Continuum's circular-themed designs range from small to large scale, and the layers of rings and dotted stripes are complemented perfectly by the distinct brushstroke texture. Click here to view the whole collection.

Jennifer hand-selected her friend Melinda Lin to design, sew, and quilt this gorgeous quilt using Continuum and some Kona solids. Melinda did a wonderful job and was gracious enough to provide us with a look into her creative process, which you can read below in her own words. So if you were searching for inspiration, look no further!

Fabric Requirements:

Fat Quarters of all the prints and color solids (lt. aqua, lt. blue)

1.5 yds of white (1yd-ish for back and .5 for top)

Accent Colors (scraps or a fat eighth or less; orange, greens, dk grey, turquoise, yellow, dk. blue)

 

Quilt Directions: 

Cut Continuum FQ prints into 6" strips.

Cut these 6” “rows” into 1" to 6" “blocks."

Do the same with the solids, but not the accent colors; these pieces are the filler/field color pieces. There is no need to be too perfect with the dimensions of these since they are random pieces to fit into the overall "rows". As you go along, you will notice that you will begin to custom fit these pieces into the rows. Always cut larger than you anticipate since you may or may not sew your seams square, but straight.  With enough precut solid pieces you will be able to play with the placement of the filler pieces.

Take the Continuum print pieces & start to create rows, vertically or horizontally, using these prints as focal points.  Think of these rows as your blocks. Remember that not all row widths must be 6" wide.

Next start placing the solid pieces into the rows that you have created. 

You will start to see your quilt start to take on a composition. Always stand back and look.  Take photos.  Move the prints around to see what looks best to you.  Use the photos as references if you want to move pieces back to where they once were.

Once the rows are filled in with the prints and main solids, start putting in smaller, skinnier prices in the larger solid areas.  Taking away the negative spaces and making positive ones & visa versa.

Once you are happy with the overall design place the accent colors. I use scraps so often times the size of the scrap dictates the size of the accent! I like to think of these as zingers of colors.

I do not sew any seam until I have the entire quilt top laid out. I work back and forth between my cutting area and wall. And when I think I am finished I allow a min of 24 hours for the quilt top to sit on the wall to let it germinate. 

When you are ready to start sewing, sew the rows that you created. Press every seam. Sometimes you will find that you end up short & will need to add fabric(s) to make your rows even.  Or the opposite will happen and you will need to trim the excess.

Quilting:

For the quilting design that is on this quilt I used the rows as my “straight” lines and stitched in the ditch.  The other lines are free form (eyeballed).  I like the wonkiness that happens when the lines are not perfect and the washing of the quilt adds more texture to it too.

When you start to quilt, begin in the center and work your way to the edges.  I quilted this in a continuous fashion – I never picked up the needle to trim threads; the stitch “pattern” is a continuous s-shape.

Binding: I like narrow binding. The strips are 1.5" wide. I also add accents in the binding to make the binding become part of the quilt top.

Little Kukla Quilt Tutorial

It's time for another tutorial! Seamstress Ramona Rose was nice enough to prepare some easy-to-follow instructions for how to make this super simple project using the new Little Kukla line by Suzy Ultman and Kona Solids. Just follow these steps, and before you know it, you'll have another totally cute quilt to enjoy!

Cutting:

6 print fat quarters (A-F), ¾ yard Curry (includes binding), ½ yard Aloe, 2 yards Coral (includes backing)

From A (Yellow buttons) and from F (Brown buildings), cut 4 rectangles (a, f) (8.5” x 4”), and 4 rectangles (A,F) (8.5” x 4.5”)

From B (Orange flowers) and D (Yellow flowers), cut 6 rectangles (8.5” x 4”)

From C (Dolls), cut 4 rectangles (8.5” x 10.5”)

From E (Teal birds), cut 4 rectangles (8.5” x 3.5”)

Sew together in the following rows:

From Aloe, cut 3 horizontal sashing strips (1.75” x WOF), and sew between the rows.

From Curry, cut 4 border strips (3.5” x WOF), sew top and bottom, then sides.

From Aloe, cut 5 border strips (1.75” x WOF). sew together into a long strip, with mitered seams, then cut to sew horizontal borders, then vertical borders.

From Coral, cut 5 border strips (2.5” x WOF), sew together into a long strip, with mitered seams, then cut to sew horizontal borders, then vertical borders.

From Curry, cut 5 binding strips (2” x WOF), miter together, set aside.

Piece scraps into a rectangle 54” x 14”, using Aloe or Curry solids, as needed. Cut Coral into 54” x WOF, then make a cut so you have 2 long rectangles 54” long. (Ramona cut into ⅔, ⅓), and piece the rectangle into this cut, making a backing 54” square.

Make a quilt sandwich, baste, quilt, bind, and enjoy!

Quilted Love panel quilt

Our new Love collection will be in stores this fall (November, to be exact), and it includes a full 1yd panel. We wanted to come up with a super simple project to help show off the Love panel that could also be used with any favorite 1yd feature fabric.

Finished quilt measures 43” x 51”

Panel print (1yd)

Inner border (1/3yd)

Outer border & binding (1yd)

Cutting:

• Trim your panel (or 1yd feature print) to 32” x 39”.

• From the inner border print, cut 4 strips 2-1/2” x WOF.

• From the outer border print cut 5 strips 4” x WOF for the outer border. Cut 5 strips 2-1/4” x WOF for the binding.

Piecing:

• Attach one of each inner border strip to the sides of the panel, trimming the strips as necessary to match the panel cut. Then attach the top & bottom inner borders in the same manner. The panel with inner border should measure about 36-1/2” x 43-1/2”.

• Take your outer border strips and sew them together, end to end, using a diagonal seam. (Julie @ Jaybird Quilts goes over this method in her binding tutorial here. Just scroll down to the “How to Piece Straight of Grain Binding”, which outlines the same process.)

• Attach the left and right outer border pieces first, then the top and bottom, working from the long border strip and cutting as you go.

• Piece the binding strips together, end to end, as you did above.

• Elizabeth at Oh, Fransson has some great tips on Making a Quilt Sandwich to finish your quilt.

• Once your top is all quilted up, attach the binding and you’re all set! Here's an example of a finished version, pieced by Ramona Burke and quilted by Angela Walters.

This super simple tutorial could be used with any fun feature print and small coordinates. We think Lesley Grainger’s Vroom collection would make a super fun version for a little boy – we’ll share pics soon!

London Calling Quilt Tutorial by Ramona Burke {Guest Post}

Super-talented seamstress Ramona Burke recently made a fabulous baby quilt using our London Calling line and has graciously put together a step-by-step tutorial for you all! Here are her instructions in her own words:

This quilt is mostly large pieces of fabric, so that the softness of the lawn, and the delicacy of the prints can be fully appreciated... There is a teeny bit of waste, but if you scroll down to the bottom, I’ll offer suggestions for how to use the scraps up too.

Working with Lawn: This fabric is lighter and slightly more delicate than regular quilting cotton, but still strong (not whispy/gauzey like voile, it won’t fray like crazy). I thought I’d need to use a lightweight needle, (70/10), but I didn’t have any on hand, so I just used a fresh, sharp 80/12, and it worked perfectly. I did use a bucket load of starch, but that was more to do with the bias than with the fabric. All the seam lines are straight, though, so as long as you use starch, and cut straight on the grain at the beginning, you’ll LOVE the soft and strong combination of lawn. 

Fabric Requirements:

⅝ yards each of 2 directional fabrics for block centers (Fabrics A ZVK-12679-192 SPRING  and B ZVK-12680-192 SPRING )

⅓ yard Dusty Pink Cambridge Solid (C322-180)

⅜ yard each of 2 small print fabrics for block corners (Fabrics C ZVK-12678-192 SPRING and D ZVK-12681-192 SPRING )

½ yard White Cambridge Solid (C322-1387)

⅔ yard Rafia Cambridge Solid (C322-1306)

2 yards Cambridge Solid of choice for backing (used Dusty Pink)

⅓ yard print of choice for binding (used ZVK-12680-192 SPRING)

(also need crib sized batting of your choice)

Cutting:

Fabric A&B (center of blocks): from each, cut 6 squares 10.5” with the grain. These squares will be cut down to 7.5” diamonds in the first step. Starch and iron them square.

Inner Solid (pink): Cut 11 strips 1” x WOF, then sub-cut into 24 strips 7.5” long, 24 strips 8.5” long.

Fabrics C&D (block corners): from each, cut 12 squares 6.75”, starch and iron, then cut each square diagonally into 2 right triangles. (for a total of 48 triangles).

Outer Solid (white): Cut 16 strips 1” x WOF, subcut into 24 strips 11.75” long, 24 strips 12.75” long

Sashing: Cut 11 strips 2” x WOF, subcut 6 into 16 strips 12.75” long, save the remaining 5 for horizontal sashing

The quilt is made of 1 block, in 2 different fabric combinations. The directions are for fabric A and C, but you’ll make 6 A/C blocks, and then 6 B/D blocks.

1. Take a fabric A square, starch and iron it, and then fold it in half and half again (making a small square). Carefully cut off the corner of your square to make a 7.5” diamond (If your fabric is non-directional, you could skip this step, and just cut 7.5” squares, but the lovely orchid fabric is directional, and worth this extra step. Save your cut off triangles for the extra project!)

2. Sew short pink strips to opposite sides of your square, making sure the bias doesn’t stretch (the pink should be straight of grain, so it won’t stretch, so just feed both fabrics evenly into your sewing machine.)

3. Press seams toward the pink, 

then attach the longer (8.5”) strips to the remaining sides of the square, again, being careful not to stretch the bias. Press seams toward the pink.

4. Fold your square into a smaller square again, and press the folds so they’ll be guides for the next step.

5. Take your fabric C triangles, and fold them in ½, then use the guide folds on the square to center a triangle along a side.

There will be overhang! Sew triangles on opposite sides of the square. 

Here again, be careful not to stretch the bias (print is biased, solid is straight grain) as you sew.

6. Press seams toward the pink, but try to leave your fold guides visible. 

Repeat step 5 for the remaining sides, again using the fold guides to center C triangles onto the square.

7. Trim off your little corner bits,

and press all the seams toward the pink.

All your bias sewing is done!

8. As in steps 2-3, sew your  shorter white strips to 2 sides of the square, then sew the longer strips to the remaining sides. To keep the white looking white, press the seams toward the print.

9. Make 5 more blocks the same way (with fabrics A/C), then make 6 more blocks with fabrics B/D, for a total of 12 blocks.

10. Sash each block vertically, into 4 rows of 3 blocks, then sew the rows together with the long strips of sashing horizontally.

11. Quilt and bind as desired! (Sample quilt was hand quilted using Valdani perle cotton with a simple running stitch in the solid white and pink strips only, then bound with remaining B fabric, backing was pink solid).

(BONUS project)

Sew your leftover triangles A and B together into squares, pressing seams toward the darker print. Cut off the dangling triangle bits.

Use scraps of Pink or White solids to sash the blocks, then use extra Rafia to add a border all around. Quilt as desired, and make a mug rug or throw pillow. (you could make 6 blocks like this from your triangle scraps.)

Just to test the ease of sewing lawn, I used up my square scraps by combining them with different weights of fabrics. I sewed them into a block with Kona solids (mustard and pomegranate),

I sewed the bonus block with Essex Linen (in Coral),

and I free-motion-quilted an all lawn block.

Each time, the lawn played well with others. No fraying or stretching (except on the bias edges, as any fabric will). I also made my daughter a dress with some of the lawn in a different colorway, and she has worn it (and I’ve washed it) numerous times, and it’s standing up to all that a 3 year old can throw at it with grace and beauty. This lawn is TOTALLY my new favorite fabric.

Animal Party Soft Book

Featuring Animal Party by Amy Schimler for Quilts for Kids, Inc.

Intro
I’d consider myself a beginner when it comes to sewing, but it still only took me about 4 hours total to finish this project - hand embroidery and all. If you’re pressed for time, or you’re just much better at free-motion quilting than me, use your machine when you’re ready to outline the animals, or skip that step entirely. You could also “bind” your book using your sewing machine, I just find hand sewing to be a nice way of getting out of my brain for a moment.

Fabric Requirements

One Animal Party panel repeat, any colorstory (2/3yd AQK-7809)

Additional Supplies

30” x 50” piece of batting
Embroidery floss in 2-3 coordinated colors
[A rotary cutter, ruler & cutting mat make things much easier]

Basic Instructions

1.   Center the Animal Party panel over the batting and either a) generously safety pin all around the edges, or b) stitch a 1/8” hem around the entire edge of the panel, securing the panel to the batting.

2.   Using a large embroidery hoop (12” or bigger) center each animal motif around the hoop. Use a running stitch to outline your favorite elements of each panel square. The distance between each of your stitches will affect how raised (or not) your motifs appear.

3.   Once you’ve finished outlining, you’re going to cut your panel into four pieces, measuring approx. 10” x 22” each.  

4.   Take two 10” x 22” pieces and lay them on top of each other, right sides facing each other. Stitch a ½” seam around the edges, leaving about 7” open at the bottom center. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your seam to make sure it doesn’t come undone during the next step. Repeat this process with the remaining two 10” x 22” panel pieces. Now you’re halfway done! 

5.   Take each of the pieces you’ve just sewn together and trim the corners at a 45 degree angle. Now you’ll turn the pages right side out, using the 7” opening you left when stitching the ½” seam. Using anything slightly pointy (like the eraser end of a pencil, a crochet hook, or any other pointy-but-not-sharp object you have handy) to push the corners out to reduce bulk. Tuck the 7” openings in so that they’re flush with the rest of the finished edge, and whipstitch closed. A whipstitch is pretty much the same as a running stitch, as close to the edge of the fabric, so that it is hardly visible.

6.    Almost done!!! Set your sewing machine stitch length to 3, and using the asymmetric squares of the panel motifs, outline one (or two if you’d prefer) square. Repeat on the remaining 3 panel fronts.

7.    This is it!!! Now you’ll “bind” your book. Pick your favorite panel to be the soft-book cover. Place this piece, favorite panel facing down and on your left-hand side. Layer the other panel “page” on top. Pin together at the center top and bottom. Using embroidery floss and a running stitch, sew right down the middle, securing at each end with a very small knot.

That’s it, you’re all done! Fold your soft-book closed, stand back, and admire your own handiwork!

Once you’re really ready to squeal, find the nearest baby and bask in their amazement of the little treasure you made just for them!