London Calling Quilt Tutorial by Ramona Burke {Guest Post}

Super-talented seamstress Ramona Burke recently made a fabulous baby quilt using our London Calling line and has graciously put together a step-by-step tutorial for you all! Here are her instructions in her own words:

 

This quilt is mostly large pieces of fabric, so that the softness of the lawn, and the delicacy of the prints can be fully appreciated... There is a teeny bit of waste, but if you scroll down to the bottom, I’ll offer suggestions for how to use the scraps up too.

Working with Lawn: This fabric is lighter and slightly more delicate than regular quilting cotton, but still strong (not whispy/gauzey like voile, it won’t fray like crazy). I thought I’d need to use a lightweight needle, (70/10), but I didn’t have any on hand, so I just used a fresh, sharp 80/12, and it worked perfectly. I did use a bucket load of starch, but that was more to do with the bias than with the fabric. All the seam lines are straight, though, so as long as you use starch, and cut straight on the grain at the beginning, you’ll LOVE the soft and strong combination of lawn. 

 

 

Fabric Requirements:

⅝ yards each of 2 directional fabrics for block centers (Fabrics A ZVK-12679-192 SPRING  and B ZVK-12680-192 SPRING )

⅓ yard Dusty Pink Cambridge Solid (C322-180)

⅜ yard each of 2 small print fabrics for block corners (Fabrics C ZVK-12678-192 SPRING and D ZVK-12681-192 SPRING )

½ yard White Cambridge Solid (C322-1387)

⅔ yard Rafia Cambridge Solid (C322-1306)

2 yards Cambridge Solid of choice for backing (used Dusty Pink)

⅓ yard print of choice for binding (used ZVK-12680-192 SPRING)

(also need crib sized batting of your choice)

 

Cutting:

Fabric A&B (center of blocks): from each, cut 6 squares 10.5” with the grain. These squares will be cut down to 7.5” diamonds in the first step. Starch and iron them square.

Inner Solid (pink): Cut 11 strips 1” x WOF, then sub-cut into 24 strips 7.5” long, 24 strips 8.5” long.

Fabrics C&D (block corners): from each, cut 12 squares 6.75”, starch and iron, then cut each square diagonally into 2 right triangles. (for a total of 48 triangles).

Outer Solid (white): Cut 16 strips 1” x WOF, subcut into 24 strips 11.75” long, 24 strips 12.75” long

Sashing: Cut 11 strips 2” x WOF, subcut 6 into 16 strips 12.75” long, save the remaining 5 for horizontal sashing

The quilt is made of 1 block, in 2 different fabric combinations. The directions are for fabric A and C, but you’ll make 6 A/C blocks, and then 6 B/D blocks.

 

1. Take a fabric A square, starch and iron it, and then fold it in half and half again (making a small square). Carefully cut off the corner of your square to make a 7.5” diamond (If your fabric is non-directional, you could skip this step, and just cut 7.5” squares, but the lovely orchid fabric is directional, and worth this extra step. Save your cut off triangles for the extra project!)

 

 

2. Sew short pink strips to opposite sides of your square, making sure the bias doesn’t stretch (the pink should be straight of grain, so it won’t stretch, so just feed both fabrics evenly into your sewing machine.)

 

 

3. Press seams toward the pink, 

 

 

then attach the longer (8.5”) strips to the remaining sides of the square, again, being careful not to stretch the bias. Press seams toward the pink.

 

 

4. Fold your square into a smaller square again, and press the folds so they’ll be guides for the next step.

 

 

5. Take your fabric C triangles, and fold them in ½, then use the guide folds on the square to center a triangle along a side.

 

 

There will be overhang! Sew triangles on opposite sides of the square. 

 

 

Here again, be careful not to stretch the bias (print is biased, solid is straight grain) as you sew.

 

6. Press seams toward the pink, but try to leave your fold guides visible. 

 

 

Repeat step 5 for the remaining sides, again using the fold guides to center C triangles onto the square.

 

 

7. Trim off your little corner bits,

 

 

and press all the seams toward the pink.

 

 

All your bias sewing is done!

 

8. As in steps 2-3, sew your  shorter white strips to 2 sides of the square, then sew the longer strips to the remaining sides. To keep the white looking white, press the seams toward the print.

 

9. Make 5 more blocks the same way (with fabrics A/C), then make 6 more blocks with fabrics B/D, for a total of 12 blocks.

 

 

10. Sash each block vertically, into 4 rows of 3 blocks, then sew the rows together with the long strips of sashing horizontally.

 

 

11. Quilt and bind as desired! (Sample quilt was hand quilted using Valdani perle cotton with a simple running stitch in the solid white and pink strips only, then bound with remaining B fabric, backing was pink solid).

 

 

(BONUS project)

Sew your leftover triangles A and B together into squares, pressing seams toward the darker print. Cut off the dangling triangle bits.

 

 

Use scraps of Pink or White solids to sash the blocks, then use extra Rafia to add a border all around. Quilt as desired, and make a mug rug or throw pillow. (you could make 6 blocks like this from your triangle scraps.)

 

 

Just to test the ease of sewing lawn, I used up my square scraps by combining them with different weights of fabrics. I sewed them into a block with Kona solids (mustard and pomegranate),

 

 

I sewed the bonus block with Essex Linen (in Coral),

 

 

and I free-motion-quilted an all lawn block.

 

 

Each time, the lawn played well with others. No fraying or stretching (except on the bias edges, as any fabric will). I also made my daughter a dress with some of the lawn in a different colorway, and she has worn it (and I’ve washed it) numerous times, and it’s standing up to all that a 3 year old can throw at it with grace and beauty. This lawn is TOTALLY my new favorite fabric.